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We set up the space miso experiment to investigate the potential physical, chemical, and microbiological changes that a fermentation might undergo in the space environment. In all this focus on experimental design, sampling, data collection and analysis, it is easy to forget—and important not to—that the miso is also a food, rich in historical, cultural, and culinary meaning, and not just molecules and microbes. To connect the space miso to these dimensions, we organised a small dinner, exploring how the space miso might connect ancient fermentation traditions with eating and living in space. Based on some initial discussions with us, the menu was conceived and executed by Kim Wejendorp, R&D Chef of Josh's research group, the Sustainable Food Innovation Group at the Danish Technical University. In the following text, Kim shares his thoughts behind each dish.
—Josh Evans and Maggie Coblentz
A time to contemplate.
A simple miso soup of a light dashi and the space miso, offered to each guest one by one as they arrived. Drunk in silence, giving the guest time to contemplate what it means to consume something produced at the furthest reaches of humanity’s travel.
Miso mixed with green onion, buckwheat, yuzu, and walnut, spread onto wooden spoons and grilled. One of the control misos from Copenhagen served in a classic soba restaurant style called ‘yakimiso’. For me this is one of the best ways to eat a miso’s expression, as it is laid bare in this simple serving. Very much highlighting the differences between the space and earthbound misos.
A dish made of dried ingredients.
Most of what is eaten in space currently is rehydrated dried foods. Texture or lack thereof is an issue, as well as astronauts’ reduction in their ability to taste, similar to what happens on airplanes.
These specific textures can also be something to be embraced, as with the removal of water comes the ability to return it in different ways. The idea was a dish composed entirely of dried ingredients, reconstituted. Carrots were peeled, steamed, and dried. After they were completely dried, they were rehydrated in lacto-fermented carrot juice made from carrot juice powder. The carrot juice was rehydrated to only a tenth of original water content. So as the carrots hydrated, they did so in a very intense carrot juice, becoming much more carroty than originally.
After hydration the carrots were smoked heavily. The result is a chewy carroty-ier carrot with almost a meatiness from the smoke.
To add more contrasting texture a furikake mixture was spooned over the top.
The furikake was made of powdered kombu, katsuobushi, puffed chickpea flour, toasted sesame, powdered sea buckthorn and soy.
With the addition of the furikake comes additions of umami, salt, acid, and multiple textures This gives the carrots a continuous mouthfeel engagement, as well as amplifying the taste sensations available to us in such an environment as space.
Finished with spicy greens from the space station’s pick and eat garden.
Fermenting flavor
Fermented foods, as well as having nutritional benefits, are often used to provide a punch to meals made from plainer flavors. Particularly in places where a substantial part of the meal could be a plain carbohydrate, the strength of a fermented food can make the meal more enjoyable.
This could also apply to space travel where the main food source might be nutritional but bland. Small amounts of highly flavored ferments could bring more enjoyment.
Potatoes, tofu skin and silken tofu were braised in a broth flavored with gochujang. Steamed buns, kimchi, pickled radishes, carrots, and cucumber were served alongside.
A 9000-year-old microbe storage story
When we think of traveling into space there is often an idea that we go somewhere new and without any of our world. But we are, in fact, bringing with us our microbes. We are bringing some of our home with us that may in turn change where we are going into something more like home.
As well as that, I like to think about the way we have carried our past with us though thousands of years. So many types of ferments we use today are links far back through time.
Yeast balls are a mixture of different fungi compressed and easy to travel. They have been recorded being used up to 9000 years ago.
Simply crush the balls into steamed rice and the different fungi get to work. Some producing amylases to break down the rice, others fermenting the sugars into alcohol.
Left to ferment for 3 days at 30˚C produces a fruity/sweet half broken down rice. Left for longer and it completely transforms to rice wine.
Here, the young version was served with the different textures and temperatures of fresh strawberries, strawberry granita, and a ginger cream.
Miso under the stars
What happens when you bring a ferment with you on a journey. To keep the microbial nutritional benefits, it must still be living. These ferments will age alongside as you go.
A taste of a miso made 10 years ago gives an idea of what that might be like.
Encased in shells of dark and caramelized chocolate painted with the stars you have just traveled through.
Kim Wejendorp is a chef with 20 years of experience in the industry. Working for the last 10 years as a research and development chef both for restaurants and industry in Copenhagen, focusing on by-product valorization and sustainability.
We live in a time when chefs can have a voice and an influence that can be heard far beyond the restaurant industry. In this way, we also have a responsibility to affect change and create a less wasteful food industry. In his view, the pursuit of ‘deliciousness’ can best be used as a means for change not an impediment to progress. Towards this end, what he tries to do through his work as a chef, is to explore the concept of deliciousness by primarily questioning how every part of an ingredient can be used and thereby contributing to a framework for building a more sustainable food industry.
He is currently working at the Novo Nordisk Foundation Center for Biosustainability at the Danish Technical University, as part of the Sustainable Food Innovation Group, exploring flavor and fermentation.